Musks are in Bvlgari's DNA.
Describing a scent is not an easy trick to pull off, if not impossible.
And yet when Jacques Cavallier, Master Perfumer for the brand, speaks of Le Gemme new trilogy, the latest in Bvlgari’s High Perfumery Collection, he comes closer than most.
“The inspiration for this new trilogy comes from the colour of the stones, and the stones themselves,” Cavallier says. “I had immediately to think of musk. I used here pure and crystalline musks for Opalon, opulent musks for Falkar, and powdery wood musks for Yasep.”
The first in the trilogy, Opalon, was inspired by the Australian white opal, a stone known for its symbol of purity, wisdom and fortune.
"Opalon is the most Italian fragrance within this collection,” Cavallier says. “It conjures the fundamental light of a summer morning in Rome."
Called Yasep after its Persian name yašp, the second fragrance is inspired by the blood-red jasper, a vibrant stone associated to physical strength, stamina and endurance.
“We take the beauty of nature, put it in a bottle, and offer it to our clients. Yasep’s personality is very noble and distinctive; it transports you to another world,” says Cavallier.
Finally, Falkar draws its power from the majestic falcon. It channels the opulence of the Middle East, and is a sensual expression of masculinity with notes of leather, wood and incense.
“A dream of the Middle East, a new expression of masculine sensuality,” Cavallier says of his third creation. “A torrid sensation, a lighter depth dressed with saffron, musks, and oud."
For the Master Perfumer, the different musks are colours to be used on a blank canvas. And the result is aromatic art.
“They are often used as a sort of background to set a tone that is then punctuated by other notes,” Cavallier concludes. “They help reveal the beauty of other ingredients. It’s like in a painting, to see the colours you need a background. For perfumes it is the same.”