A$AP Rocky Wears The French Cult Brand You Have To Know About
A$AP Rocky has a sixth sense about the next big fashion brands, and new clothes seem to appear on him so quickly that they’re probably still warm from their walk down the runway. Case in point: his Thursday night outfit by Marine Serre, who launched her eponymous Paris-based line in 2017, but only makes a small selection of menswear each season. Rocky partied with Rihanna in Paris wearing pieces from the show that Serre staged just a few days before: a shiny black waterproof duster, and a red silk baseball cap with a scarf that wraps around your head. The latter is a small but suave gesture in Serre’s signature language: a babushka and a dad hat all in one!
Each Marine Serre collection explores a sense of post-apocalyptic optimism; in addition to Demna Gvasalia, for whom she worked at Balenciaga, she’s one of the only contemporary designers making clothing that looks futuristic without feeling weirdly nostalgic. There are no curved, faux-Courreges alien costumes here. She combines the fabrics and wearability of sportswear with the cutting techniques and shapes of classic couture clothing (her opening look for Spring 2020 was a moire silk hooded dress that recalled Cristobal Balenciaga’s famous harem dress—but Lil Uzi Vert could easily pull it over Prada leggings and run around a stage like a mad man). She’s also one of the industry’s best sustainable designers, using upcycled materials in ways that feel full of heart instead of pessimistically postmodern—her new collection is packed with Chanel motifs done with deadstock towels, which is as funny as it is beautiful.
Serre told GQ earlier this year that she plans to keep her menswear offerings limited. Still, her menswear business, particularly its signature crescent moon print, are developing a cult following. (Uzi had just picked up a fleece made from upcycled deadstock blankets, from her Spring 2019 collection, when he got dressed and mused on his masterful fit pics with GQ for the October issue.) Rocky looked at once elegant and totally next level. In Marine Serre, the future finally looks like something we haven’t seen yet.