The Milanese approach to fashion, on the whole, is not subtle. The brands that show in Italy’s industrial capital all tend to have a flair for excess and a nose for drama.
The SS20 collection from German brand Boss, shown for the first time in Milan on the final day of the city’s slightly truncated women’s fashion week, provided a welcome antidote to the madness.
Overseen by the label’s excellent chief brand officer Ingo Wilts, the show took its cues from the classic European summer tailoring made mystical by celluloid classics such as The Talented Mr Ripley and Breathless.
Bright and colourful yet measured and calm, the collection was broken down into several key, entirely tonal colour stories – and, true to Teutonic form, there wasn’t a clashing hue in sight.
The white and beige section that opened the show – like a soft summer breeze that whispered down the runway – featured some of the best double-breasted suits the brand has ever produced (one white two-piece being a particular favourite).
Elsewhere, lemon sherbet and periwinkle two-pieces slipped their way in front of attendant editors like syrup off a spoon – this was tailoring that brought to mind long summer days spent sipping Negroni Sbagliatos on the Ligurian coast and nights whiled away around an al fresco dining table somewhere in the Tuscan hills.
Beyond the more traditional tailored pieces there were a number of suede and leather trench coats and bombers that had an easy luxury about them – there was a cherry red one that you’d be happy to beat up a little bit, while a caramel-hued bomber looked perfect for the impending autumn (just a shame we’ll have to wait until next spring to wear one).
In a sea of shouty branding and unabashed overstatement, Wilts’ was less a collection, more 20 minutes spent on the Headspace app – and all the more seductive for it.