Bottega Veneta's new Creative Director Daniel Lee teases what's to come in S/S 20 show

23 September 2019
Style, Bottega Veneta, Milan Fashion Week, Menswear
KIM WESTON ARNOLD
The Italian House's menswear is beautifully realised and will only continue to get better

In the flesh, Bottega Veneta creative director Daniel Lee is discreet and unassuming: his presence is not reluctant, but every inch of him feels contrary to the personality-driven moment most fashion houses find themselves in right now.

It still feels like a pleasant surprise, then, to see Lee’s second full collection for the brand feel so very distinct, so wholly confident and so stupidly stylish.

Bottega Veneta Spring Summer 2019 show

Yeah, BV’s menswear looks feel totally overpowered by Lee’s womenswear selection — the latter feels like a complete thought, while the men’s feels like a lyric waiting for a tantalising chorus. But that’s not to say this isn’t a damn fine lyric.

Lee busted out clean and flowy silhouettes that feel ready to live in. There were luxurious (and, as per brand guidelines, buttery smooth) leather shorts, which take inspiration from boxing trunks. Then there were short suits that feel like they’re on the precipice — totally ready to take ahold of the throne that Thom Browne painstakingly crafted.

Bottega Veneta Spring Summer 2019 show look 28

All throughout, those little design motifs that Lee has already become famous for — the triangles, the playful twist on the brand’s intrecciato weave — were present and built upon.

If #NewBottega has a singular signature right now, it’s probably shape — the cutouts that have added interest and charisma to the luxurious fabrics that they’re loved for.

Bottega Veneta spring summer 2019 look 20

For now, Lee has, in his own quiet way, kept the brand’s surging momentum rolling along. And for now, we take note of an aesthetic achieved — and wait patiently for the drop to come, and the menswear chorus to kick in.