It was celebrated Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto who famously said, “Black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy, but mysterious. But above all, black says this: I don’t bother you – don’t bother me.”
Never have Yamamoto’s words felt more relevant than in this current moment, when getting dressed every morning seems less about getting out and bothering the world, but more an act of defiance against the passing of the day.
It’s a point cartoonist Charles Addams well knew when he first conjured The Addams Family by way of ink and paper in 1932, dressing his ghoulish family of spooky misfits in head-to-toe black (Pugsly’s Breton-style top being the only jaunty exception). And it’s a point the designers have also embraced for Spring/Summer 2021, with black being the order of the day on most digital catwalks.
At Prada, Miuccia enlisted the help of some of the brand’s most prolific partners, including Juergen Teller and Willy Vanderperre, to help showcase her stark SS21 collection. A razor-edged paean to the colour black, sylphlike models stalked out in the kind of angular tailoring Gomez (or, indeed, a modern Morticia) would kill for, while a series of slimline black nylon looks had a moody Lurch-doing-the-housework appeal.
At Jil Sander – easily one of the finest collections to be shown in the current series of strange digital fashion weeks – oversized black great coats and blazers hung off models shoulders, emanating the lazy mystery Yamamoto was talking about.
The look continued at Philipp Plein, Dsquared2 and Salvatore Ferragamo, with pin-sharp suits and coats which wouldn’t have looked out of place on a Hedi Slimane Dior Homme runway circa 2001 – there, or in Wednesday Addams’ wardrobe.
Jil Sander SS21
Here’s our blueprint for creating your own ghoulish look this summer:
1. The trousers
Trousers by Adish, $427 at matchesfashion.com
2. The shoes
Shoes by Prada, $810 at prada.com
3. The sweater
Jumper by Jil Sander, $1093 at matchesfashion.com
Though, on the surface, this may look like your bog-standard black woollen jumper, it is in fact a Jil Sander woollen jumper, which means that it has some excellent crocheted design quirks running down the side. You see? Dressing like a funeral director doesn’t need to be boring.