Fashion has always been about interpretation.
So, when creative director of dunhill London Mark Weston said of his SS/19 collection, “I wanted to subvert the notion of classic menswear clothing codes in a subtle way… It’s part of a questioning of notions of taste and aspiration, particularly those related to certain ideas of British clothing cultures, where elegance, provocation and a certain degree of irreverence happen all at once.”
We at GQ Middle East took it as: let’s go to Brighton, eat chips and look pretty major in the process.
The experience of contrasting British clothing cultures essentially informs the SS/19 dunhill London collection. Embracing both precision and subversion, utility and elegance, Weston builds on quintessentially masculine codes, combining and contrasting them to find a more fluid exchange between classic formality and casual nonchalance.
Codified notions of taste and aspiration, crossing British cultures and class boundaries, is both wryly looked at and celebrated in the collection.
Translate that as a power dressing dialled up with sleek sportswear for a contemporary cohesion; relaxed wrapped tailoring usurping the double-breasted jacket for a new version of elegance and split hem trousers pushing through the ’80s vibe to the max. Elsewhere you’ll find the bold dunhill logo from the ’70s luggage canvas morphing into the late-’90s love of logomania.
But while these influences might borrow from trends gone by, it’s no mere pastiche. Rather a considered clothing experience tailored for a contemporary audience.
Here, executive style and rave culture coexist in marbled prints, while luxurious leathers are made for life. Elegant mohair – so beloved of the mods – was always the quintessence of classic menswear and still is. Here, pop and pomp sit easily side-by-side, and it’s this timeless, peculiarly playful sophistication of British men and menswear that is ultimately celebrated.
And where better to do this that at the great British seaside?
Grooming: Brady Lea at The Only Agency; Casting Director: Nicholas Watson; Model: Finn Hayton at Select Models; Fashion Assistant: Lerato Moloisane; Photo Assistant: Chaemus Macmillan