Ferragamo’s New Menswear Collection Is A Multicultural, Multi-generational Tribute To Florence
Paul Andrew was appointed Creative Director of Salvatore Ferragamo, the Florentine fashion house that is synonymous with classic luxury, in 2019. Presenting his first collection for the brand in June of last year, Andrew lamented the move towards hoodies, sweatpants and logo T-shirts that other big brands have made.
Andrew, the son of an upholsterer to the Queen of England, decided he was going to do something different.
The result is ‘Homecoming’, Salvatore Ferragamo’s Spring-Summer 2020 collection and Andrew’s first for the brand.
As many creative directors do when handed the reigns at such a storied house (Ferragamo was founded in Florence, Italy in 1927) Andrew decided to help the brand return to its roots, while simultaneously introducing it to a new generation of fans. The starting point, naturally, was Florence.
A city that is both ancient and modern, the Florentine mix of tradition and innovation has informed the Ferragamo collection. After all, the city’s ancient buildings, bridges, winding streets and piazzas still play host to one of the most forward-looking menswear trade shows in the world: Pitti Uomo.
What this means is that Andrew has taken the traditional menswear that Ferragamo does so well and injected that forward thinking energy into it. In practical terms, something like a classic blazer is interpreted under Andrew’s direction as utilitarian sportswear. Espadrilles, one of the earliest styles of European footwear have been updated with a leather upper and chunky, bulked out sole. Trousers are wider legged but constructed to fit elegantly. Tailoring is augmented by useful, working pockets.
Under a less well accomplished eye this mix could have proved tricky to wear but Ferragamo’s marriage of high-craft and high-tech mean that fine fabrics can be manipulated with ease, allowing the tailoring of sportswear and technical fabrics to look natural. Nappa leather is bonded with cotton jersey with ease. Technical linen gabardine, ripstop cotton nylon, wool mohair, deerskin and sueded calfskin are all combined to produce a collection that pays respect to tradition while taking in advances of modern craftsmanship.
Indeed, craftsmanship is the origin and beating heart of the house, and long may it reign.
See below for our highlights from the Salvatore Ferragamo Spring Summer 2020 collection.