You’ll know Brioni as an Italian menswear brand that stays true to its roots: masculine, precise, handsome, well-tailored. And at Pitti Uomo this week, the brand made a case for throwback sartorialism, even amidst the wave of utilitarian crossbody bags, chunky sneakers and dad jeans that have risen to menswear prominence.
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Held at the Palazzo Gerini – which was filled with atmosphere-setting candles and moody chandeliers – the brand’s presentation celebrated its 75th anniversary, showing-off its Fall/Winter 2020 collection on classical musicians who performed in rooms throughout the dizzying labyrinth.
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While the collection was undoubtedly luxurious and littered with luxe fabrications from cashmere to alpaca, you walked away with an idea a little closer to the vision of the brand’s design director Norbert Stumpfl: the idea that luxury needn’t be fussy or difficult. In one room, Bassoon player Marco Perin made a deerskin blazer and silk turtleneck feel like a worthy night out, while on the double bass, Ulrich Wolff, a German musician, made a case for silk pyjamas and a cashmere dressing gown, and all while playing Purcell and Händel.
The takeaway? Tailoring is at its best when it charts its own history – and then gives it the gentlest nod to the present. Having a palazzo for a backdrop never hurts, either.