Kim Jones’ FW20 Dior MEN Show Brings Elegance To The Menswear Spotlight
Kim! Kim! Kim! Dior’s Miami pre-fall show acted as a reminder of Jones’ emphatic ability to drop collaborations that make hypebeasts drool and bottom-lines swell – in Florida, it was a Shawn Stussy collab and an Air Jordan drop.
But the brand’s most recent showing in Paris was Jones’ collaboration-less signal that he is arguably the most technical and masterful artistic director in menswear, right now. This is the yin and yang of Jones: the hype and the haute.
And gosh, Friday night in Paris was a ride. There, as the rain started coming down outside, he showed 48 looks that dripped with elegance and blurred the boundaries of dressing. When look one marched out, you admired the grey swing coat and precision pinstripe trousers, and then took note of the velvet white opera glove and single pearl earring. Those same velvet gloves reappeared over and over, their context swirling around tailoring, around knitwear, around uber-masculine shearling collar jackets and double-breasted suiting.
Jones dedicated this collection to his late friend and collaborator, Judy Blame, the revolutionary British jewellery designer. Blame’s influences perked up through the collection, showing themselves in charms, chains and pins.
More than a few critics mused that the sheer extravagance of the collection – the night-at-the-opera coats, the aforementioned sparkly velvet gloves, the handsome berets – were as appropriate a homage to Blame as could be.
With every collection, it feels as though Jones maintains his fire – never needing a hit of gas, never needing more kindling. In him, we’re witnessing the rarest kind of designer: the man who can be admired by the two preeminent camps of menswear: the haute and the hype. And how lucky we are for it.