Kris Van Assche’s Rebellious Restraint for Berluti Fall ‘19

By Pavan Premaney
20 January 2019
Berluti, Kris Van Assche, Menswear, Fall/Winter '19, Paris Fashion Week
Berluti
Embracing the DNA and on trajectory towards modernity, Berluti’s Fall/Winter ’19 collection is a lesson in balance

In a time when bold prints, maximalism and logo-mania run rampant across fashion, a little restraint shows off as rebellious. Enter, Kris Van Assche.

Showing at the palatial Opéra Garnier, Kris Van Assche’s first collection for Berluti approaches the absence of ready-to-wear in the archives of the maison. From it ignites a sense of freedom. Freedom to choose, to create. To be adventurous and to be, free. This first collection by Kris Van Assche encapsulates his respect for the heritage of the brand, and boldly directs it towards modernity.

As echoed as freedom is throughout the collection, there’s also homage to the DNA of the brand. The first look features a suit crafted of signature Berluti brown leather patina that the bootier is known for, indicating Assche’s interpretation of the brand.

Assche’s interpretation goes one step further, drawing inspiration from old marble tables which Berluti craftsmen hand-dye the patina of shoes on in Berluti factories. The marble prints feature prominently in the collection as overcoats and suiting.

Jewel tones are a prominent feature for the fall, styled tonally. There’s a bold focus on tailoring, adhering to traditional silhouettes with a nuanced modern touch. 

The maison’s emblematic patina shoes are reimagined with sculptural caps. The construction amplifies the shine of the leather, a facet the shoes are known for.

Berluti is good for Kris Van Asshce, and Kris Van Assche is good for Berluti. We’re excited to see what comes next.

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19

Berluti Fall/Winter '19