Womenswear fashion weeks have come to a close but if you think there was nothing there for men to consider, then think again. As designers wrestle with the idea of dispatching with seasons altogether, they are increasingly showing menswear alongside their women’s collections.
Fall/Winter 2020 saw some designers cancelling or postponing their shows – and with returning fashion editors still in self-isolation at home – this season will largely be remembered as that of the coronavirus.
But for the majority, it was business as usual. Michael Kors, Burberry and Celine presented strong co-ed collections in the women’s week, while designers Molly Goddard and Brandon Maxwell offered their usual repertoire but with both dabbling in menswear for the first time.
Here, the standout menswear moments that just so happened to make it on the women’s schedule.
Tom Ford (NYFW)
The relatively new chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America received some flack for moving his show to Los Angeles during an already waning New York Fashion Week (it was Oscars eve, after all). But it was worth it: the king of American glamour delivered a laidback West Coast style that included slouchy satin pants in russet pink tones accessorised with leather AirPod and iPhone cases.
Richard Quinn (LFW)
A Central Saint Martins graduate, Richard Quinn isn’t new on the fashion scene, but it was the London-based designer’s first foray into menswear. No holds barred, he opened the show with a men’s look: a London Pearly King, decorated top to bottom in crystal and pearl, who was soon followed by his queen.
Amongst the usual flashy and extravagant designs the Milanese brand so brazenly embraces – including staples like floral and barocco prints – artistic director Donatella Versace proved in her first co-ed collection that she can still cut a perfectly good suit in black.
Haider Ackermann (PFW)
Timothée Chalamet’s arrival to the front row of the Colombian-born French designer’s show could’ve easily overshadowed the occasion. But the clothes on offer by Haider Ackermann put any doubts to rest. Expect these looks – suspended high-waist trousers, slightly rolled up, paired with boots and a green-hued tuxedo jacket – to find their way onto Chalamet soon.
A doomsday scene at La Cité du Cinéma movie studios had flooded the first two rows of the runway, which felt more apocalyptic than usual – even for artistic director Demna Gvasalia. The world may be long passed the state of treading water, but the Eastern European designer’s pieces, like the structural coats, always manage to translate Balenciaga’s house codes into modern classics.