Salvatore Ferragamo’s AW20 Show Was The Surprise Hit Of Milan Fashion Week
Paul Andrew, the utterly Anglo Saxon-looking British designer with pedigree at Calvin Klein and Alexander McQueen, was appointed the creative director of Florentine label Salvatore Ferragamo in February of last year. And though the designer showed his first collection (SS20) to round praise at Pitti Uomo back in June, it was his second outing (AW20) shown yesterday in Milan, which affirmed his standing.
Shown in the monastic surrounds of the Italian industrial capital’s Rotonda Di Via Besana, the collection was an ultra-modern paean to all things leather, the material with which Ferragamo, originally a footwear brand, made its name.
Slick nappa trousers in burnt camel rubbed hems with tonal heavy gauge sweaters, while black leather T-shirts were teamed with pants cut from the same fabric. There was also a hooded leather one-piece that had a chi-chi sewage worker vibe about it.
And though the leather pieces really defined the show, the beautifully tailored overcoats with pin-sharp edges, ribbed oversized cashmere cardigans and origami-style side-pleated trousers in shades of stone, Payne’s grey and camo looked equally at home on Andrews’ runway.
Designing clothes for a shoe brand is never an easy thing to do. Many labels that made their names on the cobbling floor have attempted to introduce ready-to-wear lines and success has been mixed. What Andrew has achieved at Ferragamo, with his neat-yet-edgy collection, is to allow the hiking boots, loafers and lace-ups, which the brand is best known for, do the talking (or, perhaps, walking), while simultaneously respecting the leather-working tradition of the brand.
(Image : Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com,Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Goru)
Just as Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta has reinvigorated the Veneto-based brand by incorporating its world-renowned leather work into his shoes, trousers and shirts (think expanded intrecciato leather car coats and chunky quilted leather Derbies), at Ferragamo Andrew is creating collections muted in tone and quiet in luxury – collections totally in step with the understated personality of the family owned, 93-year-old luxury brand.
These are not clothes that will define the fashion conversation, but rather clothes that are as elegant as they are distinctive. Mostly, however, they’re very Ferragamo and for Andrew to have allowed the power of the brand (rather than his own creative ego) to dominate the discourse is very clever indeed.
(Image: Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com,Photo: Alessandro Lucioni / Goru)