The Biggest Autumn/Winter 2020 Trends For Men
It’s that time of year again, where the clothes you’ll find in the shops next season have walked their way down the runways in London (with Florence, Milan and Paris soon to follow). We’re here, like a faithful - ever so stylish - best friend to guide you through what you should be wearing and the stuff you should avoid - so you don’t have to think about it. Presenting, the biggest trends you should be buying into next winter, from strapped up tailoring, to Glastonbury (2021) ready cagoules and ever so massive scarves, and all that’s in between (namely check suits and, well, clothes with faces printed onto them. Really).
Where recent seasons have seen the return of denim in the form of rave-ready acid washes and bleached out styles, for AW20 denim returns in its purest, rawest form. Functional denim cargo pants with a wide silhouette came teamed with classic tailored pieces at E Tautz, Swedish designer Per Götesson showed selvedge denim overalls and patchwork denim trench coats, while Bethany Williams showed a totally covetable hand-painted layered denim winter co-ord. Stefan Cooke showed a series of close cut, laser printed Canadian tuxedos alongside wide-legged raw denim trousers, which had a lumberjack-meets-club-kid appeal.
The harness, thanks primarily to the sterling work of Kim Jones at Dior and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, has been big news for a while now. You may remember Timothee Chalamet wearing a sparkly Louis Vuitton harness on the red carpet a few months ago, which was arguably the zenith of the trend, but at the AW20 shows in London, harnesses, straps and belts - most commonly attached to tailored garments - have been taking centre stage. At Chalaya, classic suit jackets and tailored overcoats were finished with chest straddling attachments and button down straps while at Charles Jeffrey, suits were fastened with oversized safety pins. At Jordan Luca, coats, jackets and shirts were finished with belt buckles and straps, while at Pronounce spread collar shirts featured waist synching side adjusters and felt blazers came tightly wrapped with tonal belts. Harnesses in their purest form could also be found wrapped around the model’s chests at Bethany Williams.
A slight curveball of a trend, this, but many designers this season have featured shirts, tabards and sweaters finished with prints of faces. From the high colour cinematic style faces and torsos emblazoned across Edward Crutchley’s silk shirts, to the Patrick Waugh-created music poster collages on tunics at Per Götteson and scarves emblazoned with an oversized take on what looked like Nick Cave’s face, big ol’ mugs were everywhere. Oh, and let’s not forget the moody face-on-face prints found on padded shirts and short cagoules at Pronounce.
The fashion gloves
An odd name, I know, but gloves with a fashion edge were shown on the runway: dripping in pearls, strap Velcro fastenings, or in bold colours. Gloves that were made to show (and look a little impractical) featured on Jordun Luca, John Lawrence Sullivan, Pronounce and Münn.
Forget the classic V-neck jumper over a shirt and tie if you’re feeling the cold. It’s time to upgrade to a loose fit, mesh knit jumper. Cut to be oversized, the loose knit drapes off the body effortless and was worn over shirts and under coats to create texture. John Lawrence Sullivan opted for an 80s punk aesthetic worn over a shirt, whereas Nicholas Daley paired it under a straight cut T-shirt in a soft peach colour.
Sure men have been wearing ties for as long as we can remember, but they’ve been given a rework for AW20. Now, it’s not about simply wearing a tie, but how you wear one. At Charles Jeffrey Loverboy the office neck tie was checked, oversized and sown onto lapels. At Münn ties were worn across chests (again sown onto lapels), around wrists and even ankle-skimming. Meanwhile at E Tautz the standard neck tie was tucked into high waisted trousers.
Winter is party season, with festive bash after festive bash. Luckily for you, the men’s shows so far have prescribed your party outfit and the hero piece is a silk shirt. But the silk shirt isn’t to be left flapping around by your knees, oh no. As seen at John Lawrence Sullivan, pronounce and 8on8, your silk shirt should be rouched and tucked, giving you more volume around your waist.