The Biggest Spring/Summer 2019 Trends for Men
L to R: Louis Vuitton, Paul Smith, Giorgio Armani, Maison Margiela, Alexander Mcqueen, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Comme Des Garcons, Ralph Lauren.
A return to elegance
Tailoring was back – and back in a big way – in London, Milan and Paris. Sure, there were plenty of beautiful suits at the usual suspects (Canali, Corneliani, Ermenegildo Zegna), but even the more outré brands dabbled in tailoring. The entire Comme des Garçons show was an avant garde musing on the suit, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy showed several tailored two-pieces and even the king of streetwear, Virgil Abloh, threw in a suit or two into his inaugural collection for Louis Vuitton. The most elegant of all the collections, however, was Kim Jones’ couture-inspired outing for Dior. You’ll never look at a double-breasted blazer (more on that later) in the same way again.
L to R: Dior, Dries Van Noten, Hermes, Jacquemus, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Lanvin.
You need some short shorts
Tiny thigh-skimmers were all over the runways this season, with the best found in neoprene at Prada, tie-dye leather at Louis Vuitton and swirly-whirly retro print at Dries Van Noten. Invest in some now, stop skipping leg day and you’ll be ready to go by spring.
L to R: Ermenegildo Zegna, Hermes, Roberto Cavalli, Acne, Dior, Dries Van Noten, Etro.
Suits worn with bare chests (it's a thing)
Now you’ve got your suit sorted, you need to figure out how to wear it. Luckily, your friendly local style shrink is here to help. For Spring/Summer 2019, you should be wearing your suit with absolutely nothing underneath. That’s right: nothing. The trend was everywhere at the shows, from the baby-blue two-piece worn with naught but a bare chest at Ermenegildo Zegna to the ultra-chic stone-hued suit shown sans shirt at Hermès. If you’re going to try the trend yourself, be sure to invest in some super-strong, mark-free deodorant first...
L to R: D2squared, Ermenegildo Zegna, Boglioli, Corneliani, Canali, Oliver Spencer.
Sage is the colour
There were several colour trends going on at the shows – fluoro lime being one of them – but sage was easily the most wearable shade doing the rounds. From a beautiful sage two-piece suit at Canali to a smashing sage mac at Corneliani and a series of sporty pieces in sludgy sage at Dsquared2 – you heard it here first, sage is the shade of (next) season.
L to R: Astrid Andersen, Dries Van Noten, Cerruti, Msgm, Hermes, Fendi.
Invest in some hiking sandals
There wasn’t a show that didn’t feature a pair of sandals in one iteration or another. The most desirable came in the form of souped-up tech walking sandals. From the heavy-duty hikers at MSGM to the nylon-webbing strap styles at Fendi.
L to R: Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Ermenegildo Zegna, Dolce & Gabbana.
You also need a handbag
Yup. Not a manbag, not a murse, not event a pochet... Spring/Summer 2019 is the season of the handbag. At Dior, Kim Jones reinterpreted the classic saddle bag, originally designed by John Galliano, into a series of shoulder bags and cross-body styles. At Zegna, little tassel bags where held in many of the models’ hands. It was at Prada and Valentino, however, that the look was most literal, with actual handbags sent sashaying down the runway. After all, men have stuff too.
L to R: Giorgio Armani, Paul Smith, Stella Mccartney, Versace, Wooyoungmi, Dunhill.
You should be wearing your double-breasted exaggerated
Double-breasted is the suiting shape of the season. We’re not talking tightly tailored, body-con DBS – the kind that was big news in 2015 – rather big, baggy, super-fluid double-breasted suits with plenty of room for the turkey belly you accumulated over the festive season. The best thing about these double-breasted suits? They’re best worn open. For the best, look no further than Korean brand Wooyoungmi.
L to R: Ami, Lanvin, Alexander Mcqueen, Pal Zileri, Wooyoungmi, Marni.
It's all about unexpected shirting
Billowing Bengal-stripe shirts worn in a casual way have been doing the rounds for a while now, but for Spring/Summer 2019, it’s all about weird and wonderful shirts with a high-fashion edge. The season’s best could be found at Alexander McQueen, where sleeves were long and cuffs were left flapping (in a chic way) under the arms of suits. Also worthy of note were the funnel-neck tunic shirts at Lanvin, the oversized cowboy check shirts at Ami and the billowing new romantic styles at Pal Zileri.
L to R: Etro, Dolce & Gabbana, Maison Margiela, Wooyoungmi, Etro, Cerruti.
Your tailoring should be wrap-around
Suits weren’t just cut in traditional ways at the menswear shows, no, no. Some of the most exciting tailored garments had a more casual aesthetic, with a wrap-around, kimono-style vibe. At Etro, the look was literal, with some kimono-style suits coming finished with obis, while at Cerruti, Dolce & Gabbana and Maison Margiela, shawl-collared tailored pieces were fastened with belts rather than buttons. The look was louche in the extreme – and we liked it.
L to R: Craig Green, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Louis Vuitton, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Marni, Prada, Valentino.
Get in on the pattern clash
Bright, bold, clashing patterns injected some welcome vibrancy to the menswear shows this season, with Versace leading the charge. Donatella contrasted a new newspaper print with her classic baroque patterns to dazzling effect. At Dolce & Gabbana, the designers showed tracksuits and cagoules covered in clashing iconographic images, which had a bright Eighties vibe. At Valentino, big, brash logos were contrasted with a neon-infused interpretation of a classic camouflage print.