Anthony Vaccarello’s latest fall/winter collection for Saint Laurent was inspired by three of the French luxury fashion house’s muses – Betty Catroux, Bianca Jagger and Catherine Deneuve – that saw a modern reinterpretation of the classic ’80s style embodied by these powerhouses.
Added to the lineup were 18 equally impressive men’s looks worth highlighting, with Vaccarello presenting the Saint Laurent man with exactly what he wants (and you bet that includes us here at GQ).
“Everything starts from the shoulder construction,” said the Italian designer. “The graphic sculptural tailoring gives a sharp sophistication to the liberated impulse of desire.”
Also noted as an inspiration is the controversial yet absolutely iconic YSL fragrance Opium – first launched in 1977, with items of clothing calling on Oriental golds and reds first seen on the packaging of the perfume.
In the men’s looks, these materialised in a leather biker jacket and a shirt peeking out above a cheetah-print crewneck sweater.
We love an homage and the creative director of the historic house always gets it right. He not only does his homework but he reimagines it, flawlessly.
Saint Laurent menswear finds its perfection in the skinny tailoring, leather jackets, and slim ties – all black, naturally – on models with that chic rock star look and feel, including on the son of an actual rock star, Lennon Gallagher, who’s also the face of the luxe brand.
Pants, including a leather pair, were slightly cropped just below or at the ankle, and paired primarily with boots. Pleated trousers added some formality – a recurring and welcomed trend seen in menswear this season – as did the collared shirts, blazers and suit jackets.
A fair share of glitter, shimmer and shine again added to the classic glam rock aesthetic Saint Laurent does so well – and without crossing into kitsch territory. The way the creative director utilises subtle pinstripes and zig-zag patterns? Yes, please.
Absolute standouts were the enormous scarves à la Lenny Kravitz in leopard and skunk. We can picture ourselves wrapped up in these as we take to the streets of Paris. Well, that’s when we’re not imagining ourselves strutting down a mirrored runway under UV-revealing lights. (We’ll leave the reality of that to the Saint Laurent models.)